tudor – The Pragmatic Costumer

The perfect outfit for threatening guests at your next Masquerade!

Hello and Happy October, world! This blog began over 5 years ago this month when my very first post went live on October 5th, 2011.

Great Galloping Galoshes, how things have changed!

My blog is now old enough to be trusted with knives, open flames, and witchcraft according to antique greeting cards.
I’m so proud…*sniff*

5 years ago to the day (on October 28th, 2011), I posted a photo of a delightful vintage fancy dress costume in honor of Halloween:

To pay homage to that anniversary, here’s another amazing fancy dress costume I recently found on eBay: a STUNNING Victorian version of a Tudor gentleman!

Or perhaps, since this fabulosity hails from France, we should call this a Third Republican version of a Valois/Bourbonic gentleman, but that doesn’t sound quite as romantic…

From the seller’s description:

“This is a complete outfit for a young nobleman of the Renaissance, 5 pieces:
– the doublet, (inner front is padded)
– the breeches [trunk hose]
– the cape
– the hat and
– the scabbard belt”

The original eBay listing can be found here.

It’s encrusted with faceted jet black glass beads and buttons– an elegant look in full sunlight, but even more decadent and glittering in the light of gaslamps and candles!
(And I can’t be the only one getting Phantom of the Opera vibes, right…right?!)

Judging by the colors, shapes, and especially the trims, this handsome outfit likely dates between 1885 and 1895–more likely the latter (that’s when black beaded trim was in vogue and just look at that cape…it screams 1890s!) This fabulous fancy dress costume could have either been worn for one of the many costumed balls popular during the late 19th century, made for a sumptuous Shakespearean spectacle, or donned during an opulent opera. Whatever the event, the costume has survived in superb condition! It is made of, as the seller perfectly put it, “soft red silk satin, the finest lightweight silky clothing velvet, very thin brown and cream polished [cotton] for the inner linings of the doublet and breeches.”

I do believe the trunk hose are displayed backwards. The buttons probably went in back and the open “butt” was worn in front– filled in with a (now missing) codpiece, of course! Since it’s a Victorian recreation, it probably wouldn’t have been a very exciting codpiece by 16th century standards, though. ;P

The full list of detailed measurements:

Cape height : 29″ width at top: 17″ width at bottom : 107″
Doublet Armpit to armpit : 20″ (chest about 40″) length : 20″ 1/2 collar : 17″ waist flat : 21″ chest flat : 19″ 1/2
Breeches waist : 15″ 1/2 to 16″ 1/2 legs opening : 21 ” length : 17 ”
Hat inside: 21″ 1/2 length: 11″

Such a miraculously fine bit of fantasy to survive in such condition for 120 years!

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!

Gain Some Dental Wisdom While I Lose Mine!

I’m suffering through the aftermath of having my errant wisdom teeth pulled, so I don’t expect to be writing too much this week. I don’t fancy leaving you all in the dark, so here is a collection of antique tooth-related artifacts to tide us over until my head stops pounding!

Gold Toothpick, circa 1580
Fancy toothpicks were an essential part of any upper class toilet during the Renaissance. They have been found everywhere, from buried under old houses to the bottom of the sea in a shipwreck. No conscientious noble would be caught at a fancy soiree without one!

Deer Tooth Ring, circa 1800-1830
Deer tooth jewelry was a popular hunting trophy in 19th century Germany.

Personal Accessory Case, circa 1766
Includes a tongue scraper, an implement I thought was relatively new. Turns out that the scrapers were a preferred method of combating bad breath in Europe before toothbrushes became prevalent.

Shakumi Character Mask, circa 1985
Japanese Noh theater masks portray many different characters. This particular mask has blackened teeth which was a popular beauty treatment in the upper class since the Middle Ages.

Blacking the Teeth, circa 1802

Ishibe: Woman with Toothbrush, circa 1845
Japanese toothbrushes were more paint-brush shaped than modern toothbrushes. As you can see in this painting, they were often double ended and were dipped repeatedly into clean water to freshen them. Originally toothbrushes were fibrous sticks that early civilizations like the Egyptians chewed to scrape off plaque.

The Yanagiya Toothbrush Shop, circa 1789

Dentist’s Box, circa 1830-1850

Man’s Wolf Tooth Ring, circa 1200-1375
Wolf’s tooth was believed to have magical healing properties. This ring mixes both pagan and Christian beliefs: on one side is engraved with a Biblical saying and on the other is an incantation to dispel toothache.

19th Century Victorian Denture
Dentures were essential in a world where dental hygiene was iffy at best. The most famous pair of dentures of all time belonged to George Washington. This particular piece is a tooth replacement, not a full denture. The gold bands would have wraped around the remaining teeth to hold the replacement in the mouth. It was common for people to lose teeth at a very young age. Wisdom teeth back then were not always the curse they are today since they often filled in gaps left by rotten, cracked, or lost teeth.